What makes time in the French alps better? Good friends.

When we end a bike trip nothing feels better than taking a nice break at our wonderful generous friends’ house in the Vallée Verte, France. We shop for food and cook in every day instead of searching for open grocery stores and restaurants. We have leisurely mornings and afternoon naps.

We watch the alpine glow and the cows waiting to go back to their barn.

But this break was even better since we had our dear friends Christine and Cecily joining us for a week. Usually we spend our time in the alps hiking from the house, catching up on stuff, travel planning, cleaning and storing the bikes and trying to help around the house. Their visit gave us the kick in our pants to rent a car and actually get out and see some of the alps. We joke that for folks who have spent so much time in the area we hadn’t seen many of the local sights.

A rock star hairdo horse.

The best way we know to get over jet lag is physical activity in the sunshine. Thankfully the weather cooperated for our first hike, Plaine Joux up to Pointe de Miribel.

Blast the jet lag hike!
Up we go.
Remember to turn around to see the high alps playing peek a boo through the clouds.
The last super steep bit.
The summit! Photo credit to the nice Australian lady hiking with her dog.
I can never get enough of the views – those huge clouds.
And the wonderful friends.

The nice hiker with the dog warned us there was a herd of goats with their guard dog on our chosen route down. The dog barked at her and her dog, just so we knew. My sister in Colorado has had these big white guard dogs for her livestock for years so I assured everyone that they aren’t dangerous, just protective. Well, the big white dog did indeed bark at us, but calmed down after we greeted them with good doggie voices.

I’m just protecting my flock.
And I will escort you out of my territory.
If we had done our hike in reverse we would have seen this information sign before meeting the big dog.
The fall colors were changing every day.
For jet lag busting hike number two Rich and Cecily both had their fall appropriate colors on.
Lac Léman under the fog.

After a day just hiking from the house, we headed by car to Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval. The weather was rainy but we all just suited up in our rain gear and headed out on a fantastic waterfall loop.

Cheryl and Christine. Friends for 42 years.
It was hard to know if it was rain or mist from the waterfall. Whatever- it was wet.
A wet day meant we had the trails almost to ourselves.
Cecily and Christine enjoying the break in the rain and the fall colors.
The mix of trees makes for dramatic vistas. As did all the uphill hiking.
Framed waterfall. It was all downhill after this point.

The next day our destination was Chambéry, which is south of Lac du Bourget. A nice walk around the old town, a visit to the Musée Savoisien and lunch.

Musée Savoisien had a great exhibit on houses of the Savoie region, and how and why they were constructed as they were.
Really detailed architectural models of the different house types.
The museum also celebrated one of the region’s most famous dishes.
Tartiflette– potatoes, lardon, onions and reblochon cheese.

At a traditional Savoie restaurant for lunch, Christine had the tartiflette, which was delicious but rich. We all agreed it is not an everyday meal. But so luscious.

Rich captured what we called “our album cover shot”.

We learned a good lesson about renting cars, always add the second driver even though it costs more. Since Rich did all the driving he didn’t get to enjoy the scenery as much as the rest of us. We’re spoiled from California where the rule is that the spouse is always covered when it comes to rental cars. We should have added me as a driver so Rich could relax and enjoy the scenery too. So, with that in mind we took the train the next day. Rich still had to drive us to the train station but then we all got to admire the scenery from La Roche-sur-Foron to Annecy.

Train station usie.
First stop in Annecy, where it was market day, a coffee cart.
Fueled up to walk around town.
One of Annecy’s beautiful rivers, Le Thiou. With fun and impressively sited fish graffiti.
Cecily and Christine in the old town.
Such a picturesque place. The water is crystal clear.
Can’t stop taking photos!
We weren’t the only tourists in town, but it wasn’t super busy. Just pleasantly hopping.
The perfect case for retirement, lounging in chairs by the lake.

After a day at home, shopping and doing an airport run to pick up Hannah, we headed off the next day to Chamonix, a new place for the four Americans. The very impressive roadway leading to Chamonix and the Mont Blanc tunnel was mostly empty since the tunnel is closed for works until December 16, 2024. That made for a lovely traffic free drive along the impressive viaduct roads.

The top of Mont Blanc was shrouded in clouds, but we now had Hannah with us!
Even with the peak covered the view is impressive.
Another potential album cover.
A glacial river and a glacier. Oh, and Cecily and Christine!
Hannah and Cheryl, friends for 40 years. I do love being able to say that. Long term friends are so wonderful.
Rich in front of a mural of famous mountain climbers.

Sadly we had to say to goodbye to Cecily and Christine as they were off by train to Italy for another friend’s 70th birthday party. We dropped them at Annemasse train station, they took the local Léman Express to Geneva, and then trains to Turin. Such a fantastic way to travel.

See you soon!

When we made our nomadic decision it was our hope that we would have friends meet up with us in various places. This visit by Cecily and Christine was so energizing and wonderful. To get to share one of our favorite places, the Vallée Verte, with two of our favorite people was fantastic. The biggest downside to our life as nomads is missing friends and family.

We also had bonus time with Hannah our wonderful host, and some lovely weather to enjoy.
We got in some more good hiking.
And got high enough to catch a glimpse of the reclusive top of Mont Blanc.
Framed by fall color.
That might look like a dry field, it was actually wet and swampy.
The sign for the cooperative cheese monger in Boëge.
Which has a fantastic cheese vending machine with curated selections, open 24/7. For those cheese emergencies.
Calf in the mist.

Too soon it was time for Rich and I to shoulder our backpacks and head off ourselves. Hannah’s family had arrived so we left them in good spirts and got a lift to the train station in Annemasse.

After our challenging trains with bikes time the previous few weeks we were giddy to have only backpacks. This is so easy! We kept saying to each other.
The travel planner enjoying his stress free train ride.

We were working our way to Paris for a month stay and more visits from friends, but first we had a few stays along the way. More on that in the next post.

The happy travelers in Chamonix. Life is even better when shared with friends.

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After decades of living and working in wonderful San Francisco we gave it all up to travel the world. Not owning a car allowed us to save money and live hyper-locally. Now we’re living around the globe. Follow along to see where we are and what cats I manage to pet.

6 thoughts on “What makes time in the French alps better? Good friends.”

  1. Lovely to see Christine & Cecily met up with you in the Alps. Can’t wait until Joe & I can meet up with you in these beautiful locales. Have a wonderful time in France.
    Check out the SF Gate article about the “Cake Picnic” to see how San Franciscans are coping with the recent election results.

    Safe travels-miss you guys.
    Best, Stephanie, Joe,Chiara, Luca & Amore

    1. We can’t wait for that too! I’ll look for the article and we’ll be in SF late January and hope to see you. We can talk about where to meet first.

  2. As usual, France appears to be “formidable.”

    Though I do have to wonder how far the Mont Blanc glacier has receded…

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