We have a running joke while we travel where we put things in a Bay Area context for each other. Guanajuato is the Mendocino of Mexico City. Parc Vincennes is the Golden Gate Park of Paris. When we discovered that Paris is actually smaller in size than San Francisco, but with over twice the population, we felt a bit more at home. We lived in SF for decades, most of those years without a car, so Paris felt like a super lively, more busy SF.
What? In my mind Paris was much bigger than SF.
Almost every Metro trip we mapped out on CityMapper was about 30 minutes or less from our Paris apartment. The Metro does move along and wastes very little time dwelling at stations – on the older lines you can actually open the doors while the train is still moving. And people do. But to walk across the city, or to your destination, really doesn’t take long. We started taking one Metro ride, and instead of transferring to a second line, just walked the rest of the way. Or, walked the whole way. We took buses as well, which is a great way to see the city and rest your feet.
Paris is so walkable. Nancy demonstrates that even the weather can’t stop her. Rich and Dan on the Coulée verte René-Dumont.
The retail scene is so vibrant. Restaurants and shops abound. And bakeries- so many bakeries. Pharmacies everywhere. Laundromats – check. Chocolate shops – check. As you walk you never suffer from a lack of interesting things to see.
So many 6-8 story buildings. So much housing.
Although the population of Paris has shrunk since its high of 2.9 million in 1921, it now hovers around 2.1 to 2.2 million. As with many cities smaller family size and gentrification have had an impact. But the population certainly keeps the city humming! A street near our apartment simply teemed with parents and children at school drop off time. We quickly learned to try to avoid that street at morning drop off.
Paris is doing a lot of street re-imagining, making more space for people not using cars to get around. This is a street in the Montparnasse neighborhood getting an update. Wider sidewalks and planting areas.And in the 12th, a massive redesign of Place Félix Éboué, adding bike and pedestrian space, more trees and amenities, and removing car lanes.These changes seem to have brought out a lot of folks on bikes.On my Paris bingo card this lady transporting her dog and baguettes would be quite a get.Of course we got out on bikes! Despite the chilly weather.
We used Lime bikes while in Paris. Cycling in Paris is quite good, although with so many cyclists I would recommend skipping rush hour at first, until you get the hang of Parisian cycling it can be intimidating. It helps to be a calm and confident urban cyclist since you will be passed by faster Parisian cyclists with only inches to spare. And be careful stopping at red lights since not all cyclists do and you risk a rear end collision!
After all that cycling around France we did this year – finally! The Champs-Élysées to the Arc de Triomphe.Now we can fully appreciate the cobblestones the Tour de France cyclists face in the Paris circuits that typically feature in the last stage of the race.Not our own comfortable bikes, but a great way to explore Paris.The Tunnel des Tuileries. Once full of auto traffic, now graffiti, bikes, and pedestrians. Delightful.And along the Seine River on a road where cars used to be.Notre Dame, just a few weeks from re-opening after the devastating fire. That’s Rich on the bike on the right.After parking the bikes we snapped the apparently obligatory Eiffel Tower photos.Yup. We were here. Proof.
It’s fun to see, or bike by, the big attractions, but our joy really comes from simply wandering. Having an errand – find a good coffee roaster to buy beans – and then seeing what we see. Be a Flâneur. Wander the city. Stroll. Observe. Be delighted. It’s what we did for so long in San Francisco, and it was such a luxury to have the time to do the same thing in Paris. As we kept reminding each other, stop and look up, look around.
Enjoy coffee and chocolat chaud.Coffee shop dog. The family who ran the shop had their two kids and dog keeping them company since it was a holiday and schools were closed.Nancy joined us in Paris and shared our cafe stops and delightful times.I particularly love Kermit and the painted poles echoing his color scheme.Neighborhood markets and murals, Montparnasse. A wall of old advertising, uncovered and refreshed on Rue des Martyrs.In the 9th. The society of mineral water building.The bubbly water in the pipe!The beauty of Paris.The passages.The people in dark wool coats strolling the passages.Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre glimpsed from Bd Haussmann on our way somewhere one morning. And the real life of a city going on.Sacré-Cœur from the Musée d’Orsay.Enjoying a chocolat viennois at the Cafe at d’Orsay.One of the famous and stunning clocks at the old train station turned museum.
Watching Paris put on her Christmas and holiday decor was wonderful. Although we didn’t see too many lights on private balconies, the commercial corridors and chocolate shops put on a show.
Chocolate Christmas tree. Buy a forest of them!Baby Jesus meringues. Apparently a retro treat, it’s a soft candy, not a hard crunchy one. I think it’s more like a marshmallow or melt away candy.A forest of Christmas trees for sale in the 17th arrondissement.The netting on the trees looks like spider webs.Trees for sale on R. des Martyrs which is closed to car traffic on Sundays.Nancy and I inside Galleries Lafayette admiring the massive Christmas tree.Which put on quite a show as it changed colors.We walked to museums.We walked to go to specialty shops only open on Saturdays to buy artistic stamps.We walked until the sun set (at 4 pm) to watch the lights come on.We even walked in the snow.All that walking meant we needed to keep up our strength. The soufflés at Le Récamier were just the thing.We had a one meal out per day rule. So we made those meals count. Sometimes we didn’t need to go far. This oyster stand set up one weekend for two evenings on our neighborhood market street.12 shucked oysters from Brittany and white wine.Thanks to Dan we visited Buns Land for some amazing Biangbiang noodles. Mostly take away with just three stools at a tiny counter.We also drank vin chaud when we could. Hot mulled wine. This was the best we tried, from the wine stand at the regional merchants evening market where we also had the oysters.Rosy cheeked vin chaud drinkers.Had to try it at La Défense Christmas market too! Complete with souvenir cup.Nice and hot, but a bit sweet. But we kept our souvenir cups to savor sweet memories.More vin chaud please! At a small Christmas market at Pl. des Abbesses.A nice version, not too sweet. The quality of the wine was not as good as at the regional merchants evening.
Late November and early December seemed to be a great time to visit Paris. Holiday cheer was getting going, but Christmas crowds hadn’t fully arrived yet. The weather was mostly grey but the sunny days we got felt even more special. The one day of snow was scenic but melted quickly. And having friends visit, first Dan and then Nancy, was just wonderful. And we got more photos of the two us than we usually take. As Nancy joked, it’s proof Rich does have a right arm – that’s his selfie taking arm usually not seen in our photos together. A big thank you to Nancy for the great photos.
Look at that! We have legs and Rich has both arms!We sit together!We stand together at our local bar!We got to pose in front of a Christmas tree. And we got to spend time with one of our favorite people in all the world! Nancy.The flâneurs of Paris.Apartment lobby mirror group photo of the happy travelers.
After decades of living and working in wonderful San Francisco we gave it all up to travel the world. Not owning a car allowed us to save money and live hyper-locally. Now we’re living around the globe. Follow along to see where we are and what cats I manage to pet.
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4 thoughts on “Spending our time in Paris. Take 2.”
Great pics! My favorite has to be the woman on the bike with the dog and the back basket and the baguettes in the front . So Parisian!
Love, love, love seeing your slow travels…wonderful to see Nancy (and Dan) joining your adventures. Lucian just finished his last college application so we will be seeing you soon! Not sure I can manage the 1-2 pub visits per day but will surely try!
Hoping a healthy & happy 2025 to you both 🎉
Great pics! My favorite has to be the woman on the bike with the dog and the back basket and the baguettes in the front . So Parisian!
My favorite too!
Love, love, love seeing your slow travels…wonderful to see Nancy (and Dan) joining your adventures. Lucian just finished his last college application so we will be seeing you soon! Not sure I can manage the 1-2 pub visits per day but will surely try!
Hoping a healthy & happy 2025 to you both 🎉
Best,
Stephanie & Joe
How exciting! The second chick getting ready to fly. We’ll be in SF Jan 25 to Feb 10 so definitely a get together to catch up! Hugs!