Suddenly you look up and two weeks have gone by! But you think back and can’t believe it was only two weeks ago that we got on our bikes (March 31) and headed to the train station in Annemasse. A hop through Lyon to Avignon to spend the night, and then train to Béziers, and ride on to Narbonne. Phew. That sounds easier than it really is, which is why we spent two nights in Narbonne to get our bike touring mindset on.
The alps coming out to say bon voyage.Lyon’s wonderful bike lanes. Our long train transfer was between stations so we got to leisurely ride across town.Rich’s American flag doing its job and attracting a chat from a local.My panniers match the train. Although the high speed Ouigo train is not for us.One night in Avignon.Ready to get off the train in Béziers.Our plan to get on our way was derailed by a long chat with another bike tourist, Martin from Holland.
Our plan was to use trains to get south and ride in Spain before the weather got hot. Neither of us are happy cycling in hot weather. We had been in Béziers on bikes before, but this time we’d ride out a different direction. After a good long chat with Martin who was also riding a Koga bicycle, it was time for a lunch stop.
Lunch in the shade alongside Le canal du Midi. We brought our little travel chairs with us this trip.We decided to stay in Narbonne for two nights once we realized we’d be arriving quite late in the day, and it gave me an opportunity to have the brakes on my bike fixed.Who could resist this photo stop?Narbonne at dusk. Like a lot of French towns there is a focus on new public space, here a lovely newly redone stretch along the Canal de La Robine.Narbonne Cathedral’s gargoyles. I would love to see these spouting water. But that would mean rain.Creepy. Love it!Canal de La Robine. The work on the canal side path is ongoing to the south.A windy day meant indoor happy hour.The small black poodle being groomed inside this shop would certainly attest to the accolades on the sign.The canal trail. This is going to be a lovely day on a champagne gravel (hat tip to Annie) trail.Or will it? Blocked by fiber optic construction.A 47 kilometer detour. Thankfully a local road cyclist stopped and told us the detour was a fine route, one he rides often.So off we went, better know the marshes.It was a very scenic detour. A bit windy. Was it a headwind or a tailwind? I can’t remember. (Kidding. It was a headwind.)Flamingo sightings.Lunch at the boules court in Bages and a chat with some locals. The flags doing their jobs again by drawing folks in and starting a conversation.Still smiling. It’s chilly enough that my fuzzy pink sweater comes in handy. Bicycle signage is quite good in France.Peyriac de Mer, after a quick snack and map stop. Such a sweet street I stopped on an uphill climb to snap a pic.Although he was technically closed for lunch the owner came out from his apartment behind the shop to sell us some much needed fruits and veggies and home made cookies. Sigean, still in France.Out of Sigean the route climbed up a rocky pass. Definitely best suited to mountain bikes or gravel bikes, but here we go.This look says ‘Yes, I did just fall in that mud puddle’. My rear pannier caught on a branch as I tried to skirt the edge of the puddle and I ended up in the puddle.Ortleib panniers act like bumpers for the bike when you go over sideways. My bike and panniers were fine, I was very muddy with a few scratches on my left leg. Pride? Slightly wounded.Still in France so the signage is still strong.Headed down a very rocky route. Lots of walking the bikes.Leaving Leucate where we spent the night and a bit of time de-mudding me and my gear.Headed to Perpignan and our first good view of the snow capped Pyrenees mountains. Don’t worry, Rich says, we’ll have even closer views. Beach snack stop in Le Barcarès.Getting closer to those mountains along a very nicely paved cycle path.Are we riding or just always stopping to take photos?Oh photos, definitely stopping for photos.Perpignan. The French buildings and palm trees made me smile.The Basse canal, an off shoot of La Têt River. Coming in to Perpignan from the north it didn’t look promising but once in the heart of town it’s charming.Sweet little streets and cafes.Easter is approaching! Easter bunnies.And Easter foxes.Do I love chocolate shops? Yes!Sweet street art.Polite and obvious reminder of where your ciggy butts go.The days are long, sunset at 8:30, so lovely long twilight light.A nice apéritif.A hearty meal.Oops – an entire bottle of red wine. And a lovely chat with a Swiss/Spanish couple. In light of what’s going on in the US some of our conversations have gotten more intense. Not confrontational, but intense.Leaving Perpignan, next stop: Figueres, Spain. In the way: mountains.Ok, next stop actually still in France. Brouilla. But it’s starting to look like Spain.Over a river.Over a bridge. Foothills approaching.Through vineyards. That little orange speck is Rich. Who’s anxious to get to some mountain climbing? He is.This low pass closes not for snow, but for risk of fires.
Unlike France, information on cycle touring routes was a bit spotty as we headed into Spain, but we headed up the pass optimistic about our new adventures coming in Spain. Stay tuned.
After decades of living and working in wonderful San Francisco we gave it all up to travel the world. Not owning a car allowed us to save money and live hyper-locally. Now we’re living around the globe. Follow along to see where we are and what cats I manage to pet.
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Less Car, More Life 