A well propped up tree in Kenroku-en gardens, Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture.
I will miss the trees. We visited a lot of gardens and parks to see cherry blossoms, but the blooms aren’t the only attractions. The trees, the green moss, the water features. Although Japanese cities were not all blessed with a lot of parks or green space, those that exist are so well taken care of.
A verdant carpet of moss.The green. The water. The old tea house. Kenroku-en gardens.This giant camphor tree in Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine is estimated to be as old as 1,500 years. Feel insignificant yet?What was the progression here? Tree first than building? Small tree and a miscalculation of tree potential? Spring is not all about cherry blossoms, this tulip display in Shikoku Mura open-air architectural park in Takamatsu, Kagawa Prefecture holds its own.
I’m going to miss the small streets, with restaurants and shops that cluster together, usually near a train station. Each city has its share of large arterial roads, with plenty of car traffic and sometimes intolerably long signal phases, leaving you standing for minutes waiting for a pedestrian walk signal. But, when you find the area of small streets the entire nature of that city changes. Narrow and mostly car free or very car light, the small streets give you an opportunity to feel you’ve stepped back in time.
Chuo district, Kobe, this an alley between the railway tracks of Sannomiya Station. It’s packed with businesses.Same district, Chuo, Kobe, Hyōgo Prefecture. The night time scenes are so bright and colorful.The neighborhood of Motoshikkuimachi, Nagasaki. On the hunt for a ramen shop, we wandered around for ages after dinner, entranced by this warren of small streets.An urban planner could explain how the geometry of the streets, the lights, and the heights of the buildings all work together just so, all I know is I love it! Still Nagasaki, one of our favorite places. Even the vending machines add to the charm of the nightlife.
Within these fine grained streets, with corners hiding the next view, are the amazing small restaurants. I’ve mentioned the awkwardness of sliding open doors and facing a tiny space perhaps already packed with customers. It can be cringe inducing, but so rewarding to be able to eat at a restaurant that is run by people who focus on one thing. This type of food – we do this and we do it well. You will wait the required amount of time, you will likely be served on hand thrown ceramic plates, and the food will be exquisitely displayed.
A chef waiting to cook our Kobe beef. Yes, he knows this cut and presentation deserves a photo.Tuna three ways said the menu at the sushi bar. Delicious, delicious, and delicious. Even a conveyor belt sushi restaurant has style.A burger place in Takamatsu. The chef/owner does burgers and cocktails. That’s it. And they are fantastic. Did I mention the restaurant seats maybe 9 customers? Shashimi at a small Izakaya in Shimabara. Mom and Dad cooking, their young daughter who started primary school that day sitting at the counter playing. The plate, which you can barely see under this load of fresh fish, was gorgeous.The same Izakaya. After this tofu salad course I typed into Google translate that their ceramic plates were stunningly beautiful. She turned to him with a look we all recognize: it said, see? I told you so! Another beautiful presentation at a Shabu Shabu restaurant in Kagoshima, famous for its black pork which was delicious. This sashimi course came with our set menu.
If it’s possible to desperately miss something you only got to do twice then we will desperately miss the Yatai of Fukuoka. The Tenjin neighborhood has small food stands, Yatai, which set up each night to serve up food in a space half the size of the storage unit holding all of our possessions back in the US.
That is a Yatai.And this is a Yatai. You look below curtain level to see if any seats are available, or you look for a line of patient customers waiting.Rich added for scale. We had dinner at this one. Not much room inside to take photos. And you don’t linger after dinner. For one, it’s not the most comfortable seating ever. And the owners need to turn the seats when there are only six or seven of them.Not much room to cook either, but the chefs were making it work. It’s warm and cozy once you’re behind the curtains.
The number of Yatai was shrinking, but in the last few years they’ve enjoyed a new renaissance and there are about 150 now. In addition to dinner at one we spent a hilariously fun evening drinking at a Yatai bar. Everyone is friends at a Yatai bar which measures 10×8 feet.
Fairly unassuming from the outside, this Yatai bar.But inside is magic.My pomegranate daiquiri. Rich with a martini. Round one.The tools of the trade. Apparently it takes 3 hours to set up this Yatai each day. And 3 to take down.My daiquiri and Rich’s mojito. Round two.A super fun young recently engaged couple from Osaka. We were communicating with English and google translate. And on Rich’s left two young women, engineers who had studied in Canada. Boiled peanuts and potato chips (gone already) were the bar snacks which the cover charge supplied. Yes, we have that beer mat. Again, it’s a seriously cozy space. You sit closer to strangers then you would anywhere else.
What else will I miss about Japan? The safety. The ability for Japan to have nice things that people respect and take care of. Public restrooms which are clean and stocked with rolls of TP which are not stolen. And the quirky things. Things you see and go, oh yeah, that makes sense to have.
Ritsurin Garden in Takamatsu. You use these to remove dust from your shoes after strolling in the gardens. Hot tea from a vending machine. A can of Royal Milk Tea, black tea with milk and sugar. Hot. This is on the ferry coming back to Kagoshima from Mt. Sakurajima volcano. Hot cans of coffee too! The little cartoon mascots everywhere. Such a cute deadly volcano! A radish gets the cartoon treatment. Volcanic hot springs get a cartoon. The train to the Fukuoka airport has a cartoon dog keeping you safe.Who’s a good dog? Kuro is.
You will always feel you missed out on experiences and places when traveling. We immediately have a list for “next time”. It says a lot about a place that you want to come back, soon. Regret is a rear view mirror. So what do I regret about our time in Japan now that we’ve moved on?
There are themed stamps at every train station! I failed to realize this until we had already been through so many stations. And I had no cute notebook in which to stamp these unique stamps.Then I found one at a volcano park and was even more annoyed at myself. I could have had a whole book of stamps.
This is when Rich and I say to each other “I used to do important things.” Recalling our previous professional lives where we earned money, and made multiple decisions a day that impacted people and projects. And we laugh at ourselves. Another regret? Hotels in Japan supply you with pajamas. Really. Instead of a robe you get pajamas or a button up nightgown contraption or a yakuta, a light cotton kimono. Somehow the pajama tops and bottoms fit both me and Rich, sometimes with pretty funny differences. Do I have a single photo, let alone a collection of photos? No. If you go to Japan learn from my mistake and take photos of yourself in the pajamas in your hotel rooms. And take a notebook to collect the stamps.
A very apt warning sign. I will not miss hearing Rich’s head connect with room doorways, low hanging light fixtures, and train doors. We hang things from the doors in our rooms as mitigation.Sunset light on the happy travelers in Nagasaki.
No regrets that we visited Japan. Such a lovely place with wonderful people. Goodbye Japan. Hello Korea.
21 years car free, 11 years serving on transit boards helping SF and Caltrain move forward, and now, traveling the world. Happy doesn’t begin to describe how I feel when traveling with my hubby TravelRich.
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2 thoughts on “What we’ll miss about Japan. And what I missed!”
I can’t stop smiling while I read this. Your writing radiates happiness!
I can’t stop smiling while I read this. Your writing radiates happiness!
Thank you Peter. We had a fantastic time. And Korea is proving to be just as fun, but so different.