So Rennes wasn’t really a city on our must-see short list and probably isn’t on yours either. It’s the largest city in Normandy with 230,000 inhabitants and sits at the confluence of the Vilaine River and the Ille et Rance Canal. It’s the only major city in the region not on an estuary and also a major train hub for eastern Brittany.
Despite a major fire in 1720, much of Rennes core survives with half-timbered buildings and “newer” buildings of granite and tufts stone
Since it is a key train hub, we had to transfer in Rennes to head further east, so we decided to take a rest day to explore it. We enjoyed it’s vast commercial core, which is buzzing with people, very walkable, and has a wide variety of restaurants and shops. Nice trams too of course. The city is a little short on sights, but we managed to easily amuse ourselves for the day.
Typical sloping half-timbered building with signature Bretagne slate tiles.I liked this impressive stone sculpture at the Palais Saint George.The free entry Musée des Beaux arts has a nice collection of art spanning from medieval to modern, including a few Cailbottes.One perk of bigger cities with lots of young folks is of course the variety of restaurants. This friendly Lebanese Cafe, Jeddo, served delicious small plates and Man’Ouché, a thin crepe like wrap with a variety of fillings.Rennes core has an intriguing and organic mix of buildings from all eras.We found a friendly pub near our hotel that had a British amber on hand pulled draft! It was so good and so rare to find in France. We went back the second evening too. Of course the wine was good.Clever storage under a creperie.
So from Rennes our next goal was to get northeast to the Normandy coast to explore the countryside and see some of the extensive World War II history. But the winds were blowing strongly from the east for 3 days, so we decided to take a train hop east from Rennes to Laval and take the Velo Francette route due North. Inland areas can be protected from the wind (sometimes!) and we’d mostly have cross winds as we cycled. With the unfavorable winds, we had to be clever and I was glad for our flexibility without advanced bookings. Sure we could press into the east wind, but the stretch from Rennes to Laval was not particularly interesting, and we’d burn a few days that we could spend elsewhere.
Heading a few blocks back to the Rennes Train Station on a direct and separated bike route. The Dutch would even approve.The very cool Architecture of the Rennes Train Station, It was a expanded with the new design by AREP (not Arup!) in 2019 and the clever plaza in 2024. It had form and functîon as you could access all the platforms below by large ramps or the upper station area by clever switchback ramps. Fantastic for bikes and all mobility.Spacious main level of Rennes Station.We were early for our train so lots of time to explore and take photos.And see public art like this intriguing sculpture of a mythical horse Morvach and its reflection in water, by Jean-Marie Appriou.Our short train ride to Laval, was uncrowded and had nicely designed bike hooks; just 3 in each car unlike the opposing 6 (3×3) hook design on other trains in Brittany that can make getting your bike out really challenging.Unloaded in Laval and ready to ride! Cycling along the Mayenne River from Laval nicely protected from the winds howling from the East.La Vélo Francette runs 640km from the Atlantic at La Rochelle to the English Channel at Ouistreham. It’s supposed to be “gentle France”, and was mostly.Not too busy on this remote section of La Vélo Francette from Laval to Mayenne.Sleepy ducks.Some beautiful private residences (Mini Chateau?) along the river.Remnants of past industry at weirs as the Mayenne river is navigable by locks.Always love an old mill.Very understated but scenic stretch. Are we there yet? This short 40k afternoon ride post train ride was mostly flat but more challenging than expected as about half was on rough track with rocks and sand in places. This was a smooth part…Mayenne is definitely off the tourist track but does have a cool Medieval Chateau and museum above the river. We missed the museum’s short hours on our overnight stay.We liked its authentic warren of medieval streets and buildings built into the hill around the Chateau.The Grand Hotel De Mayenne is highly recommended as the owner is super bike friendly and even offers bike washing provisions! And the restaurant had delicious food and is a local draw.
The great experience you get on a long distance cycle route is the variety of local segments. Sometimes you’re on very popular (and likely more scenic) stretch with lots of people and other times (such as Mayenne to Flers, and Flers to the La Suisse Normande) you are basically on your own. But some of the most scenic areas were in little valley and roads in between and we really enjoyed the whole 3 days on the route to Caen. And of course you get to stay in little off the beaten track towns like Mayenne.
Mayenne did not escape bombing in the summer of 1944, but was finally liberated by the Allies of August 5th.This section of rail trail near Mayenne was nice.A rail bridge with a story. That man riding away explained to us (in French) that his mother was here when this bridge was bombed and the Nazis were retreating in 1944. The legacy of the war is certainly still current in the local lore.Never say no to a bench break if in doubt as the next one might be 10 or 20km away.And there are always local branch routes and loops to explore if you are not on the long distance plan.Very calm and bucolic along La Vélo Francette.Not sure what exactly this sign was referencing (sub commune/farmlette?) but I like it.Our route (43) crossed another major long distance path to Paris at Domfort, The Scenie (40) was 340km SE to Paris. Hmmm, next time.Spring flowers and scents filled the gentle air.Long stretch without a bench and this one is in the sun and has no back….onwards to FlersFlers offered the best lodging option between Mayenne and Caen, but wasn’t our favorite town. No nice plaza and cars even ruled the core. Even the main access to this nice Chateau and park (the one sight) was a street with single file sidewalks and speeding traffic. They could do more and generally do elsewhere in France.But a tasty Indian Restaurant in Flers did stimulate our taste buds.Cheryl ready to roll out of Flers.
After Mayenne, we headed about 70km north to Flers and a small Best Western hotel. (Yup, reliable and usually bike friendly in Europe) We were off the designated Francette route for 30km or so heading out of Flers but following other small bike routes on quiet and hilly back roads and valleys. And as soon as we turned off the main road out of Flers, we were again struck by the ubiquitous memorials and stories of WWII. Flers was liberated by the British and Canadians in 1944 who had landed at Juno Beach. As you ride, you work back through time of the Allies liberation trek from the beaches.
This was a beautiful tree commemorating British troops.And this very appropriate wooden memorial to the Canadian liberators.Cheryl loves paths and old gates. We did not go this way.Still off the Francette, we dropped into the lovely Vére River valley a truly middle of nowhere feeling.This road is nice!Well, nice except for a bunch of gravel trucks. But they were respectful and all heading to a massive sand and gravel quarry off the road.And of course the prospect of otters always excites Cheryl. We did not see any otters crossing as probably too late in the morning. “Do not run over me!”This old bridge wall was the only place to sit for our coffee and tea break in this remote valley.And this abandoned rail viaduct is an undeveloped part of the Suisse Normande greenway we were headed to. But first over a very steep hill. Perhaps they’ll open the tunnel soon as they keep expanding Voie Verts all over France.And then briefly onto a part of another Calvados route, Le Verdoyante.As we descend the steep road down the other side of the climb, we see an open Cidererie and stop to taste and buy a few small bottles for the road. Delicious and tart.And alas, onto the Suisse Normande voie verte for the last 41km to Caen.The beginning of the Suisse Normande route is beautiful with viaducts frequently crossing the River Orne.One of the rail tracks is still in place next to the trail as this section was historically a dual track system.The trail is festooned with whimsical cartoons by Heula, a collaboration of the Normande designer Sylvain Guichard-Bichicchi with information and humor.Our picnic with local Normand goodies, including the cider from Cave de la Loterie.Nice new picnic table by the trail.And these Calvados filled chocolates will probably put you over the legal limit as they are strong!Oh, in case you wondered what department of France we were in.Love the Heula.Getting closer…but it’s getting flatter and a little less interesting.Oh, another lovely bridge over the Orne.A very informative sign about the historic iron ore mining in the area.And more fun Heula signs-:)Ah, finally a tunnel!Cool lighting and mysterious bend.Selfie while grooving in the tunnel.Lots of recreation on the river, including kayaking and even rail bikes!And getting close to Caen finally!
We finally rolled into Caen on a warm Saturday afternoon, and the old city and core was packed with people. Even though it was legal to bike on the streets in old town, we often had to walk our bike through the throngs of people. Caen is a nice little city with a castle and the unmissable Memorial de Caen museum we visited on a past trip. So this visit was just a quick overnight on the way to our next destination and the Normandy coast.
Funky mural in Caen.It was time for snails. Starting my initial fight with the escargot, but these guys were tough as pretty deep in their shells.So forget the tongs, just hold the shell in your hand and use the fork. And then the sanitizing wipe when done. But delicious with plenty of garlic and basil.Leaving the glamorous back parking area of our hotel in Caen and headed west.
We like to see big sights sometimes and the famous cities and villages are popular for a reason, but to us the deep memories of our bike touring adventures are in the small places in between. It’s a travel cliché, but so much more true for bike tourists. And we get so used to being away from other tourists that it is a bit of a shock when we re-enter the more trodden tourist-sphere. And so our next destination after Caen is on the heavy tourist map, as it is a perfect gateway to the miles of history along the DDay coast. But I’ll leave this for Cheryl and another day.
Embarking on the next phase of my life after working as a full-time Civil and Transportation Engineer in the San Francisco for 30 years. My wife and I will be following our shared passions for world travel, culture, and sustainable transport.
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