Operation Big Mouth: Normandy Coast to the Seine

It’s morning, we’re packing up to get back on the bikes and I say to Rich, well that wasn’t really a rest day, was it? Rolling rest day, he says. Hmmm… I don’t think riding 50k, even without our panniers, counts as a rest day.

Riding out of Bayeux and back to the coast.
The remains of “Churchill’s floating harbor” built with mulberries constructed in England and towed across the Channel. Arromanches-les-Bains
Looking down to Arromanches-les-Bains.
Riding in Normandy in April is a bit of weather gamble. We really lucked out with sunshine and wind. It easily could have been rain and wind. Happy hikers going by.
The fearless leader. Enjoy this day, he is saying, the weather change is approaching.
I tell Rich his credibility with the road cyclists who zoom by is destroyed when they see my pink sweater and straw hat helmet cover.
The gorgeous stretch of beach at Arromanches-les-Bains.
A remnant of a Phoenix Caisson, still helping to shelter the harbor.
This was an incredibly strategic site. The floating harbor allowed resources to supply the Allies to come ashore and advance. The port became totally operational by the beginning of July 1944.
Above town at the memorial to the British Troops a statue of WW2 veteran and survivor 97 year-old Bill Pendell MD looking back at himself as a 22 year-old landing on the beaches 75 years earlier.
“I’ll never forget the majestic armada of ships.” Each plinth is engraved with a quote or memory of a veteran or civilian. Cue me crying about the British Troops. It’s an amazingly moving and humbling experience to witness the sites of such self sacrifice.
The sun is indeed shining, and the partial headwind is a-blowing.
My not so happy headwind face.
The route took us inland a bit where we found a somewhat sheltered picnic table for a lunch stop.
We’re along the stretch of coast where the Canadian troops came ashore. Now I weep for the Canadians.
A tank which had been buried in the sand for 32 years, exhumed and on display.
The Canadian army in 1944 numbered about half a million men, five-sixths of whom had volunteered for overseas service. Apparently the German troops, many of whom at this point were very young and conscripted, especially feared the determination of the Canadian forces.
“This house was liberated at first light on D-Day on June 6, 1944, by the men of The Queens Own Rifles of Canada who were the first Canadians to land on this beach. lt may very well have been the first house on French soil liberated by seaborne Allied Forces. Within sight of this house over 100 men of The Queen’s Own Rifles were killed or wounded, in the first few minutes of the landings.”
Bassin Joinville. Not a particularly quaint place, so we pedal on.
Ouistreham, where big ferries arrive. We’ve ridden this stretch before when we took a ferry from the UK a few years ago.
Hey other countries, look at what France does for cyclists at a ferry terminal! Nice wide protected bike lane. Hint hint.
Getting closer to the end of our 64k windy day. Just need to detour around the Canal de Caen and the Orne River. Tailwind heading inland, headwind heading back to the coast.
Distraction in the form of a really cool driftwood fence. Love this.
Phew! Made it to Merville-Franceville-Plage. Across the river from the very busy Ouistreham.
Dinner at the delicious L’Atrium Cuisine locale.
My mindblowingly good starter. An egg somehow poached and fried in a crisp coating, nestled in hay cream, sautéed leeks, and bacon.
Sunset stroll to walk off our delicious dinner.
Our super long shadows.
Gentle and cute signage: “You’ve got the look Hippo, Hippo, you’ve got the look.
In the center of Merville-Franceville, we dress [BARE TORSOS PROHIBITED].
Thank you!”
“On this beach, our children breathe in the fresh sea air, not smoke!
NO SMOKING BEACH.”
The weather has changed a bit the next morning, now it’s overcast, and a little chilly, but don’t worry – still windy! Even more windy. I know, why am I even a little surprised at a windy coast?
Our bikes at the ready on Plage de Cabourg. 65k to Honflour and the mouth of the Seine.
What do I do when it’s a headwind? Draft off the Wall of Rich. Yes, I am usually closer to his back wheel but it’s risky when taking photos. I don’t want to be the cause of our mini peloton crash.
Houlgate. A path for walkers and runners, train tracks, bike lane, and car lanes.
I’d call this style of architecture Industrial Gothic. Striking.
Accidentally Wes Anderson.
At the top of another hill climb.
I love bike signage.
It took a bit of a search to find this lunch bench. River on one side.
Church on the other!
Not every kilometer is super happy fun bike infrastructure, although a climb with decent pavement, a shoulder, and a steady incline isn’t the worst. We headed inland on the main cycle route but then deviated a bit to shorten the route and head into a more protected valley to Homfleur.
On the outskirts of Honfluer. Grey Gardens mansion with sheep. I couldn’t help but think that in Ireland or the UK the sheep would have found a way into the house and be peering at us from the windows.
A stop for a map check. Rich is trying to get us to our hotel with as little climbing as possible.
Oh yes, there will be cobblestones at the end of the ride.
Hello Honfluer!
A beautiful harbor, Vieux Bassin, and so many happy tourists, including us. It’s ringed by narrow tile fronted buildings and is very picturesque.
Some of the small streets felt like a movie set with well preserved old buildings.
Old buildings come with challenges. Our harbor front stroll was cut short by plywood walls, blocking access from both sides.
And blocking direct access to our hotel. The building with construction wrap is trying to fall down. The city is trying to stop the fall.
Floors separating from walls, support beams no longer doing the load bearing work – it was a mess. And threatening to fall and take down other buildings.
An abundance of caution meant an entire plaza and multiple shops and flats were closed to all foot and car traffic.And had been for almost a year! The engineer guessed that the big construction machine is doing some sort of pile driving or grout injection. Let’s hope it works.
We will enjoy our evening wine far from the potential collapse zone.
Packed in the morning and ready to load up and ride.
The fenced off safety zone made for a nice car free street. Historical romance film ready.
Let’s do this. Heading off to ride the Seine towards Paris.
Our stays along the Normandy Coast.

So here we are. The mouth of the Seine. Ride the river to Paris. That sounds easy. River, flat, pretty. Where’s the challenge there?

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cbink

After decades of living and working in wonderful San Francisco we gave it all up to travel the world. Not owning a car allowed us to save money and live hyper-locally. Now we’re living around the globe. Follow along to see where we are and what cats I manage to pet.

3 thoughts on “Operation Big Mouth: Normandy Coast to the Seine”

  1. Excellent recap and photos. We were blessed to ride this area in 2023 and then returned by car in 2025 with our history loving grandson. Did you see the Pegasus Bridge?

    Reply

    1. Oh thank you! We rode right across that bridge but we were pretty shattered after a long windy day and didn’t stop! Amazing history all along that coast. We felt like we could spend days and days just learning.

      Reply

      1. Definitely! And all the history. I was even able to stop in the town where my grandfather was injured in 1944. We found it very hilly but we took many D roads rather than the bike paths (trying to cover distance).
        Wonderful area for a bike tour! Keep enjoying!

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