Did we stay out too long? How to enjoy Paris while kind of wishing we were home.

Was it one week or two weeks too long? Was it having a comfy house back in Seattle, and old and new friends to return to? We didn’t expect to both hit a wall and just want to go home. And we could barely admit to ourselves that our scheduled stay in Paris felt at first less like a treat, and more like a thumb twiddling time, waiting to be done with our trip.

From the train station to our hotel in the 12th is a well known route for us.
Headed to the Tuileries tunnel.
Which is filled with an ever changing line up of street art.
The view from our room at the Adigio ApartHotel in the 12th.
After check in is a grocery run.

We have stayed in the 12th 5 times, and on the same street, four times. Three shorter stays at the aparthotel, a night at a hotel and for a month at a private apartment. The hotel is super easy with bicycles, with a secure garage with racks to lock to and easy in out for bike riding days. We do like routine don’t we? We know where the grocery stores are, have our favorite bakeries and our favorite bar, and know which metro entrances and exits are most convenient. This helped us shake off our travel overload, I think. A known environment, favorite places, and it’s Paris! Deep breaths, Paris fun.

A walk through the Jardin des Tuileries towards the Petit Palais, a new to us museum.
A pastry break while waiting for the Petit Palais to open. That’s the Grand Palais in the background. My choice was a caramel roll.
Rich always tries the chocolate almond croissant. Always.
Citroën 2CVs (deux chevaux) lined up at the curb. They offer sightseeing tours.
Rembrandt self portrait. One of almost 80 he painted. In this one he was unhappy with his legs so he added the poodle.
To me the poodle makes the painting.
La femme au singe by Camille
Alaphilippe. 1908.
Monkey enhance!
Always fascinated by the animals in paintings.
If there is a painting by Théodore Géricault I will stand for a long time and marvel at his talent. He did love horses and painted them with such detail.
Is there anything cuter than a well behaved class of children in a museum? Here they are learning about Les Halles (1895) by French Naturalist painter Léon Lhermitte.
La Servante ou À la barrière by Eva Gonzalès, painted 1865-70. Not only do I love the colors and simplicity of this painting, but hello: female artist on display!
We were super lucky to find out that a friend was in Paris the same time as us. Christine joined us for dinner and a walk the next day. We were all happy to have the company.
Very civilized escargot. Much easier to eat when already removed from the shells.

With museums, a friend to see, and bicycles to ride around a city which has made so many positive changes to welcome people on bikes – we rebounded quickly. Our travel malaise solution? Acknowledge the issue and then smother it with fun activities!

We went out on our bikes and of course stopped at my favorite shop, Je Suis À Vélo, on Rue de Rivoli.
Just messing around Paris by bike.
And a day to ride out the Marne River.
Lunch by the Marne river path.
We got a lovely sunny day to ride out. Bry-sur-Marne.
Met up with Christine again for a walk.
The views from La Promenade Plantée. Paris’ high line.
A nice grey sky to highlight the buildings.
Fontaine aux lions in our neighborhood plaza.

Over the five years we’ve visited the 12th arrondissement we’ve watched Place Félix Éboué go from an asphalt heavy place for cars to move through, to a years long construction site, and now to a green place for the community to gather and enjoy. History here, of Éboué, the first black French man appointed to a high post in the French Colonies.

Loads of new plantings.
And where asphalt was, trees and plants and benches now are.
How can anyone be jaded by Paris when there is always more to explore? Les Pavillons de Bercy – Musée des Arts Forains. Rich booked the English language tour weeks earlier.
The museum displays items and sets from fairgrounds, theaters, and music halls from the 19th and 20th century.
So dramatic and dramatically lit.
Lots of fun peep boards, or carnival cut outs.
Yes, we had fun with the peep boards.
A bicycle powered carousel. Rich could barely fit his knees under the handle bars but put his cycling legs to good use.
Near the end he was one of the few left pedaling. He finally stopped to save his knees. You can see the riders in front of Rich have their feet up off the pedals. Behind him is our guide sitting sidesaddle.
Carousels made in the UK go clockwise, North America and the continent go counter clockwise. Hope that comes up at a bar trivia game someday.

I should mention that our apartment hotel, The Adagio, was accommodating and switched our room for us after two nights. We had booked a one bedroom, which has a separate living room/kitchen area and is well laid out if you have a second person on the pull out couch (we did not). However, we were getting noise at 4 am from somewhere. Was it the ventilation system or the breakfast area just below us? We talked to the front desk, they tried to eliminate the noise but it came back so they let us switch rooms to one on the fourth floor from our first floor (second floor for Americans) room. Score another one for a hotel over an AirBNB. Helpful staff on site.

From a Paris train station.
To a bridge in Lyon! Like magic.

Ok, that was not exactly a magic trick. One last wrinkle in our return to the Haute Savior was Rich’s last minute discovery that we had neglected to make bike reservations on our direct train from Paris to Lyon. The rules about bike reservations, even on the local TER trains change on May 1st. Yikes! No more bike reservations were available on our train and the fine would be hefty. So, the travel planner found an earlier train from Bercy with a transfer in Clermont Ferrand, to Lyon.

The transfer had a long enough gap that we rode out to see some new infrastructure in Clermont Ferrand and get sandwiches for lunch. We had spent a few nights in Clermont Ferrand a few years ago. It’s the home of the Michelin tire company. And hence, the rubber tire tram in the background.
There’s the magic: Lyon part Deux train station.
As in Paris we have our favorite places in Lyon. Velcroc riverside bar.
And the frites maison and mapu tofu at Engimono Asian restaurant.
An after dinner stroll and our one transfer night in Lyon was complete.
Who has learned that first class is the way to go? This guy. Lyon to Geneva.
We had a nice quiet train from Lyon to Geneva.
My new saddle cover purchased at Je Suis À Vélo in Paris.

Oh did I say final wrinkle already? One more. We discussed whether to change trains and go to Annemasse, or, stay on our comfy train and ride from Geneva to Annemasse (only 10 k) and then up the valley. Oh let’s ride, we said. Almost easier than transferring. Ha! The Geneva marathon had other plans for us. We struggled to clear the train station with all the road closures. Then, on the very nice pathway to Annemasse we had to cross the marathon course twice. Not an easy feat. Had we known about the marathon we definitely would have taken the transfer and train to Annemasse.

A rainy ride up the valley and a stop at another marvelous French vending machine.
Gourmet lasagna for dinner!
There is always something new to see on our ride up the valley.
The rain was off and on.
The second spotty horse of this trip!
Getting closer to the end of our 7+ weeks in Europe, six of those weeks cycle touring with A big loop.
Ahhh! Cozy at our good friends’ house.
And some time with Hannah. Thank you dear friend.
The final map. A purple heart on each place we stayed.

Do we still love to travel? Of course! Was seven and a half weeks a bit too long? This time, yes. It’s been fantastic to be home in Seattle, having time with friends, working on our garden, doing local hikes and bike rides, and just enjoying life. And yes, the next trips are already being planned! But it’s hard to beat Seattle for summer time.

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After decades of living and working in wonderful San Francisco we gave it all up to travel the world. Not owning a car allowed us to save money and live hyper-locally. Now we’re living around the globe. Follow along to see where we are and what cats I manage to pet.

2 thoughts on “Did we stay out too long? How to enjoy Paris while kind of wishing we were home.”

    1. Hi Bill and Meg, thank you for letting us know about the meet up! Rich will be visiting family but I will try to come. And yes, we miss France too, as happy as we are to be home.

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