The backwaters of Munroe Island by gondola. We’re on the floor getting ready to duck under a low bridge.
Transportation continues to be a big topic of discussion for us. And a big source of frustration. Our stay in Fort Kochi was nice, the fort and beach area is away from the city itself, and a chill area with big trees, some small streets and lanes to walk, and friendly people.
Friendly street dogs. Perhaps too friendly. This guy followed Rich for over 20 minutes. The old and new. Cheena vala fishing nets and a cargo ship sharing space.
But like everywhere else, with cars and scooters dashing and honking, people on foot get short shrift. You are the bottom rung of the transportation ladder, and you know it.
Goats and cats, relaxing until Rich’s dog buddy chased them. The trees in Ft. Kochi are huge! The shade they provide is invaluable. Jackfruit growing in a front yard. White bougainvillea gives a stunning display.I appreciate the locals commitment to gardening. It really softens and cools the streets. These huge trees are called Rain Trees, or 5 o’clock trees. Apparently the leaves “sleep’ at night.
We learned very quickly to go out early for our walks. Before breakfast. Not only is the temperature cooler, but there are fewer cars and scooters about, so less wrangling for road space. Notice I say road space since sidewalks are pretty uncommon outside any city center commercial street- and even on some of those streets. When we caught a predawn taxi to the train station we realized the locals got out very early to walk and jog the quieter streets.
Rich at the Kochi train station. We think we’re waiting at the correct spot at the very long platform.If you could hear the dogs thoughts they would probably be thinking – “We’re helping!”Happy on a train ride to Kollam. We had two 1 AC berths, one upper and one lower, in a four berth cabin. Our cabin mate, a lovely woman from India got off two stations after we got on. She’d been on the train overnight from Bangalore.
The trains are popular since the alternative for many of these destinations is driving. We really try hard to stay off the roads in cars. The driving is tough. Not for non locals I think. And we try even harder to stay off the roads at night, other than short auto rickshaw trips in towns. On this trip we have hired a car and driver for several transfers, and it’s no picnic either. We sit in the back firmly belted in and try not to watch what’s going on as cars and scooters and buses overtake and honk and swerve. We always let our driver know we are in no rush and much more interested in safety over speed.
The top of the lighthouse in Kollam.
We were super happy with Rich’s choice of accommodation in Kollam, the Ashtamudi Villas, right on the lake. Even though all we could book was a non AC room we were fine. And we had a lovely neighbor, Karen from Plymouth UK, with whom we went out on tours facilitated by the guys running the lodge.
Making new friends at the lighthouse. After this photo we stayed to be the background of their dance video. Colorful fishing boats at the beach. The fish market is behind us. Our fantastic driver and tour guide, Sudhi, dropped us off at the market for a walk around the block. Kollam locals were so welcoming and friendly. Even wandering a market where it was pretty obvious we weren’t there to shop, they were happy to chat – and take usies! Coconut break.Coconut and snack stall.Refreshing coconut water.After you drink the coconut water the nice man hacks your coconut in two and scrapes the soft pulp/fruit clear so you can enjoy that too. Note the paper straw. A small but welcome improvement over the ubiquitous plastic straws of the world.Sudhi! If you’re lucky you have a driver/guide like Sudhi. Another benefit of a good lodge, they have connections like this. Tea and coffee on our little porch.Sudhi, Rich, and Karen. We’re headed out for a boat tour of the canals of Munroe Island.The boatmen propel the boats like Venetian gondoliers, but here you have to duck under bridges. It was a Sunday so lots of folks out to enjoy a boat ride, but the canals felt calm and peaceful. Fishermen out in the larger lagoon. Yes, there is a canal ahead. We’d been out for hours and a bathroom break was needed. Sudhi found us a friendly local who let us use her outhouse. The local temple decorated for Maha Shivaratri festival. We could do a lovely walk from the lodge along the lake into this neighborhood.Festival decorations.Such beautiful colors. A hanging dovecote. But I think those are pigeons.Our morning walks are very necessary. We have a hard time getting enough exercise due to hot weather and bad roads.I can’t ignore the trash problems. It’s terrible. Oh yes, my breast surgery recovery is going well!
It was a good time for us to come to India. After my breast reduction surgery we knew I wouldn’t be able to bike or do anything very strenuous for a while, so India was a good fit. I haven’t carried my backpack yet, on transfer days Rich wears his backpack and carries mine, but most transfers are door to door, or train station to taxi to door, so not too much toting for Rich. But, even me, always willing to lean into sloth, I want more activities that will require muscles over motors. We are accustomed to much more active lifestyles.
The happy but slightly antsy travelers. A rare electric powered auto rickshaw. Our driver to the train station stopped at his family temple and gave us both bindi marks made from kumkum paste, which is turmeric and lime juice. Again, friendliest people in India in Kerala.
Stay tuned for more India. As we say to each other, the being places in India is lovely, the getting there is the challenge.
Less Car, More Life 